Bri and I found ourselves at the Vineyards at Dodon around 1:00pm on Sunday July 29th to explore the Bordeaux-esc grounds and hopefully sample some wine. At first, we both thought that our time there would be like any other winery tour where you learn a few facts about the wines and their production process- maybe even a little history.

As local wine writers we have visited many wineries, numbering somewhere in the hundreds, but we would soon come to find that Dodon was different. I am not sure if it was the group yoga lesson going on, the happy patrons, the live-action ecosystem or the immaculate campus but there was an electricity in the air that begged a closer look.

As we walked into the main tasting room, we were greeted by Jen who quickly showed us to the dining room. We were given a glass of their new rosé as we waited for the other two people joining the tour to arrive. The dining room was beautiful. It had a panoramic view of the vineyard. On the table sat a few wine-tasting place settings. Once the others arrived Jen once again joined us and began to talk about the Vineyard and what was going on there.

At Dodon, farming is about more than growing grapes—it's about healing the land, restoring ecosystems, and cultivating with intention. The mission centers on regenerating soil health, restoring biodiversity, and enhancing ecosystem function, all while minimizing pollution and building resilience for both vines and the people who care for them.

Jen went on to talk about the importance of soil health, noting that soil is a living system, rich with life and organic matter. In the 17th century, soils along the Chesapeake Bay's western shore held about 5% organic matter. By the time Dodon began cultivating vines, that number had plummeted to under 0.3%. I am guessing because tobacco was being grown for a while, and tobacco can be very nutrient extractive. To reverse this degradation, Dodon adopted agroecological methods that mimic and accelerate natural soil-building processes. The processes included minimal tillage, re-introducing native perennial cover crops, utilizing organic compost and adaptive multi-paddock grazing for the sheep.

After a great introduction, we threw on our sunglasses and were brought out to the sauvignon blanc block for a closer look at how Dodon has been working to restore biodiversity. The first thing you notice about the manicured vines is the groundcover they use to help prevent erosion. Dodon uses biodiversity as a regenerative force. Its blend of meadows, hedgerows, and native grasses creates a thriving ecosystem for insects, birds, and soil life that control pests naturally by reducing pesticide use. This enhances grape and wine quality and supports carbon sequestration and nutrient-rich soils.

Behind us was Dodon’s pollinator meadows. These meadows are planted with over 28 native species. The planting of these indigenous species has reduced insecticide needs and improved vineyard health. To expand habitat and honor local ecology, Dodon partnered with the Maryland Department of Natural Resources to plant 1,600 native trees and shrubs.

Now, keep in mind that when we were out in the vineyard it was hot- really hot, like the sun and moon had switched places. Luckily, we got to cool down a bit on our next stop, the production room. This is where the magic happens. Each tank was allocated to a different wine. The production room is the heart of the winemaking process, where science and craftsmanship come together. This space was filled with stainless steel fermentation tanks of varying sizes, used to control temperature, separate sediment and preserve the purity of the wine's flavors during fermentation. This room was clearly designed for efficiency and cleanliness, with smooth, washable surfaces and carefully managed airflow to reduce contamination risks. From the production room it was just a few feet past a draped plastic door to the barrel room.

The barrel room of a winery is where wines rest, mature, and develop their complexity over time. Dodon’s barrel room was chilled and packed with French oak barrels all from three different French coopers. Each of which imparting subtle flavors like vanilla, spice, or toast to the wine. The quiet, almost cathedral-like atmosphere of the barrel room reflects the patience and precision required for aging, as winemakers routinely monitor and taste the wine to determine when it has reached its peak. This stage of the winemaking process adds depth, texture, and character, making the barrel room a vital and often romanticized part of the winery.

After a multitude of really engaging information which was well received from the group, (especially from us cork dorks), Jen said those magical words, “Do you guys want to try some wine?” Without question, we cheerfully made our way back into the dining room.

The place settings we talked about earlier were no longer empty. The wine was poured and a charcuterie plate with locally sourced cheeses, meats, mustard and olives were there for the taking. The wines we got to try were the 2023 Sauvignon Blanc Reserve which had notes of citrus, white flowers and cut grass with a great acidity. Next was the 2019 Dungannon which is a Bordeaux style blend boasting 69% merlot and 31% cabernet franc. Dungannon was named after an award-winning horse the family used to own. The wine’s raspberry, mocha and slate were really punched up and balanced out with great rounded off tannins.

After this was the 2019 Oronoco, (my personal favorite). It was named for the variety of tobacco that was once grown on the farm. It was a blend of 48% cabernet sauvignon, 24% cabernet franc and merlot and 4% petit verdot. At the end of the wine line, we were able to try the port-style Salute the Truth, which paired incredibly with the local honey, brie and cracker bite that Jen told us to try.

As a final surprise we were gifted a glass of the Rosé Reserve, (only available to members). I am not even sure what to say about this wine, other than I need to become a member ASAP.

As we were tasting and pairing, Tom Croghan, co-owner and winemaker, stopped by to greet everyone and talk a little more about the winery. He shared a few stories and in return we shared a few laughs. It was nice. Tom had a few takeaways for us about Dodon.

Dodon aims to restore the multifunctionality of agricultural landscapes. From supporting microbes and pollinators to filtering water and storing carbon. Guided by the principle that "evolution is cleverer than you are," Dodon avoids quick technological fixes and instead learns from nature through observation and adaptive practices. The results are measurable:

• Soil organic matter increased tenfold, storing an estimated 2,500 tons of CO₂.

• Insecticide use dropped by 70%, and fungicide use by 33%.

• Phytochemical levels rose, making vines more resistant to pests and enriching wine flavor.

Dodon’s progress is encouraging, but broader change is needed. Climate change, pollution, and biodiversity loss remain pressing global threats. The IPCC calls for a radical transformation of agriculture, much like what Dodon is modeling. Dodon’s approach shows that farming guided by ecological intelligence and core values works. By moving beyond an either/or mindset, Dodon finds balanced solutions that support the land, the community, and the business.

As Bri and I left the Vineyards at Dodon, we realized this wasn’t just a wine tasting, it was a glimpse into the future of sustainable agriculture. Every glass of wine told a story of resilience, intention, and respect for the land. Dodon isn't just making exceptional wines; it’s proving that thoughtful farming can regenerate ecosystems, strengthen communities, and create a meaningful connection between people and place. The experience was a reminder that great wine begins in healthy soil, thrives through biodiversity, and ends with shared purpose. For us, Dodon wasn’t just a winery, it was a revelation..

Special Thanks to: Regina, Jen, Tom and the Dodon Vineyard Staff.

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