A Tale of Two Vineyards: Boordy vs. Linganore – Maryland’s Legacy in Wine
The story of Maryland wine is enriched by two prominent family-run wineries—Boordy Vineyards and Linganore Winecellars—each rooted deeply in the land and tradition, yet different in their journeys. Though both are testaments to the enduring value of family, innovation, and environmental stewardship, they diverge in their timelines, philosophies, and winemaking approaches. Notably, Boordy is the older of the two, founded in 1945, while Linganore followed three decades later, officially opening in 1976.
Boordy Vineyards traces its roots to 1945, making it Maryland’s oldest continuously operating winery. It was originally licensed by Philip and Jocelyn Wagner in Baltimore, who were pioneers in American winemaking, especially with hybrid grape development. Today, Boordy is operated by the Deford family, who acquired the winery in 1980 and planted it firmly in their historic “Long Green” farm in Baltimore County, which has been in agricultural use since the early 1700s. The Defords have continued the Wagner legacy while developing their own reputation for high-quality wines and sustainable practices.
Linganore Winecellars, by contrast, was founded by Jack and Lucille Aellen in 1971. The vineyard was planted in 1972, and the winery opened in 1976 in a repurposed 19th-century dairy barn. The Aellen family brought with them a unique blend of German-Swiss and Italian winemaking traditions, which influenced their early innovations, such as the introduction of Maryland’s first semi-sweet grape wines and fruit wines. Today, the winery is operated by the second and third generations, with Anthony and Eric Aellen playing key roles in winemaking and vineyard management.
Boordy’s evolution has focused on refinement, terroir expression, and long-term sustainability. The expansion to the South Mountain Vineyard in Frederick County allowed them to grow grapes in diverse soil types and climates. From 2008 to 2018, Boordy replanted its vineyards with superior vine stock and constructed a state-of-the-art winery in 2013, emphasizing quality above all. Their wines today reflect this commitment to craftsmanship, led by Rob Deford, who trained in enology in California and brought technical expertise to Maryland’s winemaking scene.
Linganore, in contrast, became a regional innovator through rapid and continuous technological expansion. From the 1980s onward, the Aellens introduced advanced bottling lines, fermentation equipment, and harvesting machinery. Their fruit and honey wines, along with their dedication to customer experience—including festivals, custom labels, and community engagement—have made Linganore a local cultural hub. They were the first in Maryland to establish a federally recognized viticultural area, and have won over 200 medals in national and international competitions.
Both wineries demonstrate strong commitments to environmental responsibility, albeit in slightly different ways. Boordy has placed its historic farm into permanent conservation through the Maryland Environmental Trust, aligning its wine production with its stewardship values. The winery’s work emphasizes land preservation and minimal environmental disruption, rooted in their long-term vision for local agriculture.
Linganore’s approach to sustainability is more technology-forward. In 2011, they switched entirely to wind power, installed solar-powered EV charging stations, and began exploring the feasibility of wind turbines with an on-site wind anemometer. These efforts earned them the Green Business of the Year award in 2011 and continue to drive their operational ethos.
Boordy’s brand evokes tradition and elegance, positioning itself in the premium wine space with wines like “Founder’s Reserve.” It maintains a polished, restrained aesthetic and appeals to consumers interested in terroir, history, and artisanal craftsmanship.
Linganore, while equally historic, leans into a more approachable and fun-loving culture. With 5 major festivals, over 30 wines (including sweet, fruit, and dry styles), and Lucille Aellen’s cookbook on wine and food pairings, Linganore cultivates an atmosphere of casual enjoyment and inclusivity.
In comparing Boordy Vineyards and Linganore Winecellars, it’s clear that both have significantly shaped Maryland’s wine industry, albeit in different ways. Boordy, older by 31 years, emphasizes traditional viticulture, terroir expression, and long-term land conservation. Linganore, founded in the 1970s, embodies innovation, diversification, and direct community engagement.
Each winery’s journey reflects its values—whether Boordy’s emphasis on generational stewardship or Linganore’s focus on accessible, joyful wine experiences. Together, they showcase the richness of Maryland wine, each playing a vital role in its past, present, and future.
